CDS2- Roncevalles to Zubiri

We woke up, feeling sore but good and ready to go. I overslept, not by much, but enough that I was in a panic and Debbie absolutely didn’t care and was fine. We were out the door by seven.

It started off a little confusing because everyone left before us so we were not clear as to which way to go, honestly. We figured it out and began to walk. We got to a point where we were unsure so we asked a fellow walked and continued on. We were talking so much that afternoon a while we realized we had not been fully paying attention and could no longer see indicator signs showing us we were on the right path. A lot of standing, back tracking twice and map reading we figured out where we were. We were just talking the road instead of the natural park for a little which is okay. We eventually got back on track and went. The days have been cool which had been really nice. We got lucky today because it was musty in the morning but by the end of the day it had only rained minimally on and off. Nothing compared to the first day. Overall it was still a tough day. Lots of inclines and declines but man, this terrain were are on is so inconsistent and nothing I read ahead of time indicated that and I don’t know hope that is possible. In someways I get it because we are earlier in the season or weather will be different, which changes our terrain but hope does no one mention you go from sorry to gravel to stone? I’m sure if I specifically googled the Camino terrain it would come up but I never did because everything I read made it seem like the first day was legit tough backpacking and then pretty much the rest was just a path-paved/dirt/gravel. Still hills but one defined path of the same terrain. Nothing I saw alluded to anything else so why would I have ever bothered to seek out the terrain if it didn’t seem like there was that much of a variety! But guess what! There is. And rain only makes it more dangerous.

Thats where today went bad. The end was super sketchy. It was a step decline of dirt, rock, and stone, some with a river through it. So all of the sorry was mostly deep mud from recent rains and all the steep slopes of stone we had to cross were super sketchy because of how well they were. Steep and sleek are not a good combination. It made the end tough, but we did it. We got to Zubiri and crossed the bridge into the town and stayed at the first albergue we could find. It was really nice with a great view of the river. The town was small and cute.

After checking in we decided to go look for and arm and dinner. We saw Kelly sitting by the river and went to talk to her. We first met her in the train station in Bayonne. Sorry of. We sat across from each other all day at it saying nothing to each other until she asked if we would watch her bag while she went to the restroom and we did. She sat in front of me on the bus, my throw up almost made her throw up, really-great friends now- haha! She also stated at the same first albergue and we walked quite a ways together the first day. She’s a zookeeper in Cork, which is pretty rad. She’s not doing the whole Camino, only going to Pamplona. Anyways, talked to her, asked about the atm, and decided to get food at this nearby cafe. As we get near the cafe we, before we see, we can hear New York. Now, we call this guy New York because we don’t know his name. We only know he’s from New York.

Let me tell you about New York. We came across his peppy self the very first day. I walked by as he was trying to take a selfie of him and some friends. I offered to take the photo and gleefully said yes! He then offered to take one of me and did and then I asked him to take one of Debbie and I and he did. These ones

Awww how nice. Well, New York is a very happy guy. But on day one, which was pretty miserable for everyone he was just too dang happy. He was in a better mood than most because he had paid €8 to have his bag sent ahead so while yes, he was doing this horrid trek with us in this unpleasant weather, he WASN’T carrying all of the things on his back like most. While that’s not his fault and totally his choice to do, it did put him mentally and physically in a different place than most around him. And for that, his little burst of sunshine in his sky was not floating over mine.. Or I gather most people. He is extremely kind and continuosly has checked up on Debbie, asking if he can do anything for her, give her Advil, walk with her,etc. He walked with me for a bit which is why I know he’s from New York (no accent though) and from the city. This is the first time he had been out of the country. I know that because I had to ask. They way he spoke about things and the things he said reminded me of myself when I first went to another country or anyone who is young and just learning the world is so different. So much of what he said and his views I felt were naive, maybe cause it was pouring rain and he was walking like it was nothing that my grumpy self was annoyed but to some extent it really was just lack of experience. Not that I know everything or close to anything, because I definitely do not have it all figured out by any means- I have so much more to grow and learn, I just think I understand a little more than him. This lead me to ask how old he was. He said 28. I definitely thought he was going to say like 23/24.

Sooo…that was unexpected. I think overall he probably wasn’t a fan of my less enthusiastic company and he back tracked to find his friends. Since then, we see him peruodically through out the day. He is always excited to see Debbie and even asked for a photo with her. Turns out the first night they were in the same sleeping area in parallel bunk beds. Debbie told me this story this morning while walking. He asked Debbie why she was walking (a common question here) and she said she responded and told him and out of courtesy she asked him the same to which he responded he’s looking for love and the one and how to know when you meet the one that they are it. So he asked Debbie if he could ask her some questions about her experience and her thoughts and took down notes. He told her how he talked to a couple that had been married for years who were on the trail and their advice and what Debbie feels about what this couple told him, blah blah blah. Just a lot. Very kind, well intended. But a lot. This is New York. A happy go lucky, kind hearted, emotional, loud (he just always talks so loud, completely and totally oblivious to his surroundings- and that’s coming from ME), young guy looking for love.

I feel you need to know all of this because I have a feeling we will be seeing al lot of New York in the next thirty days. Oh boy.

Annnyyywaaaays. We sit as far as we possibly can from him and Kelly ends up coming to join us to eat! I had meatballs and sangria. I reaaaaaaaally wanted salad or fruit but this place didn’t have ANY. I also figured I haven’t really had any real substantial food in a while so might as well get something. They were pretty good. I don’t usually eat meatballs but I really wasn’t feeling any of the food on the menu. Kelly mentioned she was waiting for the super market to re-open (siesta) and I asked to join in the hopes of finding fruit! We head over and there’s over priced fruit. An apple or orange was €2.80. So, I went to bed fruitless. Debbie and I stopped in the sporting goods store where she bought a new poncho because hers ripped and a new buff because she accidentally left her at the first albergue. We headed back to the room to sleep. While the sun was still up because it doesn’t set here until like 10pm it’s feels! Whattheheck! It’s crazy. I mean not that crazy. I wish we had that much daylight at home.

Day mileage: 16
Total mileage: 29.9
Personal mileage: 17.02

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